Cranberry crumb bars with mulling spices

This week I’ve been baking batch after batch of cookies as we head towards Christmas. I’m not sure why cookies are the sweet treat most associated with the season, but perhaps it has something to do with their portability, which not only allows you to take a batch with you when you go visiting but also allows your host to send you home with a few, as well. Of course there’s also the endless variety of cookies, which when sitting next to each other on a plate can be as lively and festive as a tree draped with ornaments and lights.

In Texas, one of the more popular gatherings this time of year is the cookie exchange. While each party can be different—with some being relaxed and others rigid with rules—the purpose is always the same: to share cookies with your family and friends. It’s a good way to spend a December afternoon.



While I have my favorite cookies to bake, I’m always on the lookout for new ones to add to my rotation. And when I spotted cranberry crumb bars with mulling spices in Deb Perelman’s The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook, my decision was made.
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Holiday gift guide 2012

While I love spending time in the kitchen, I’d have to say I’m happiest when I’m driving around Texas, enjoying our state’s rich and gracious bounty. No matter where I go, there’s always something new to see. This year’s gift guide reflects some of the trips I’ve taken this year, a year that’s been full of family, friends and many joyful discoveries.

Homemade Texas cookies
One of the good people I had the chance to meet this year is Jerita Howard, proprietor of One Smart Cookie, an Abilene-based business that sells, yes, cookies and brownies. Her recipes are based on old family recipes, and the results are warm and delicious. She uses all-natural ingredients and every cookie is handmade, which results in a sweet treat that feels like it was made with love. The raspberry brownies are my favorite.



Cajeta from Texas goats
When I was staying in Houston during Sandy, I had the chance to visit Revival Market. The owner Morgan Weber, who's also a rancher, is very passionate about good stewardship of the land and raising healthy and happy animals. His shop not only offers charcuterie and prime meats, but local produce, cheeses and breads as well. There’s also a pantry section with canned goods both made in-house and locally sourced. Revival Market can’t offer mail order just yet (but do visit the shop if you’re in Houston), but one of the things they sell—Blue Heron Farm's Bourbon Cajeta—can be ordered online. This cajeta is a goat’s milk caramel that’s wonderful on ice cream, spread into a warm tortilla or just eaten straight from the jar with a spoon
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Turkey enchilada verde soup

Three weeks ago on a Friday, I found myself back in Texas so I could give my talk at the University of Texas at Arlington. It went well and the students seemed to enjoy the subject matter—though who doesn’t enjoy talking about cheese enchiladas, old friends, grandparents and recipes? In any case, because I’d been a nervous wreck leading up to the talk, I hadn’t spent much time focusing on anything else that was going on in the world.

So imagine my surprise when I woke up on Saturday to the news that a big storm was heading to New York City. The reports coming from the East Coast were full of panic and fear—I began to worry. There was talk of high winds breaking windows, power outages, and more. What should I do? My flight back to New York wasn’t planned for Sunday but I considered changing it so I could return to New York and guard my apartment against destruction. Of course, this was foolish thinking and when the mayor announced areas of my neighborhood would be evacuated, I decided to spend a week in Texas until the storm passed. It was an excellent decision.

As it happened, my apartment was without power for four days, which would not have been fun. If you’re from Houston, you’ve probably been there before and know that eating peanut butter and playing board games gets old after a while. That said, no power would have been the worst of the storm for me, as so many others have suffered much, much more.



There are still plenty of people without electricity, without running water, without heat, and without homes—it’s devastating to hear the news. You try to help in whatever way that you can, but you may feel that it’s not enough. It’s at this point that I sit back and just feel grateful for the ability to do something—no matter how small or how grand the gesture may be.
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Texas and the place of memory

In a couple of weeks, I’ll be giving a talk on the theme of “The Place of Memory” at the University of Texas at Arlington. While I’m not sure what I will say just yet, on my recent trip home I looked for inspiration as Texas always rejuvenates and revives me.

My first order of business was to grab a bite when I had a layover at DFW. At Cousin's, I chose this:



When I arrived in Abilene, I headed for the nearest Tex-Mex restaurant and was soon eating this:



Later, we went to dinner at Perini Ranch and it made me smile to see this:


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Chocolate pecan sticky bars

About this time eleven years ago, I took a plane trip to Texas. It was my first flight after 9-11 and everyone was still shaky about air travel. Many of my friends advised me to postpone my trip, as they thought it was too soon to fly and were concerned about what might happen. But I had longtime plans to be in Houston to celebrate my mom’s birthday, and despite my fears and anxiety it was an occasion that I did not want to miss.

This year, I found myself back in Texas on her birthday. Last week I was in Abilene for the West Texas Book Festival, and when I learned that I’d have a layover in Dallas, I decided to extend it from a few hours to a few days so I could see my family. But as soon as I made those plans, I started feeling anxious. The airline I was on was experiencing problems, which made returning on time a shaky proposition. I began to worry.

Now, at this point I had a choice—I could fret about my plans and make myself miserable, or I could just let it go and enjoy the precious time I was spending with my family. As I did eleven years, I opted to stay the course. And it was the right decision as we ended up having a landmark time.



Sometimes I tend to over analyze events, but I do think the lesson I learned this trip was important. I often get so wrapped up in my working life that I find it hard to pause and savor those rare moments shared with those special people in my life.
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Tomato pie with bacon and jalapeños

On my refrigerator is a photo my mom sent me from last Thanksgiving. It’s a shot of a long wooden table that’s been topped with an array of pies. There are cream pies, pecan pies, fruit pies and chess pies. They’re not perfect, as the crusts may have rough edges and the meringues don’t always form even peaks. But this is what tells you that these are pies that have been made by hand, with love. There’s nothing better than homemade pie.

At family gatherings, pies are usually the way we conclude our meals, but lately I’ve been thinking about ways to incorporate pies into the beginning and the middle of the meal, as well. Tomatoes are not only at their peak right now, but it’s also starting to cool down outside—baking tomatoes into a pie just seems right.



There’s a classic Southern tomato pie recipe that calls for an abundance of mayonnaise. This is not it. While that’s a fine pie, it’s always felt like a side player to me and I wanted something heartier—a pie that could take center stage.
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Green chile cheese steak

The song of the cicadas, the beginning of football and the arrival of Hatch green chiles always signal the end of summer for me. While I usually try to make it home every August so I can enjoy these things, this year I’ve had to stay in New York, holed up in my apartment writing recipes for my new book.

Okay, that’s not actually a burden, as I do love to write. And I’m pleased to say that now that the recipes are on paper the fun part starts to happen—I head into the kitchen and start cooking. But let’s get back to those signs of late summer. While New York City doesn’t celebrate football quite like Texas does, there are plenty of cicadas clacking away and the other day I even found some Hatch chiles.



Now, this time of year in Texas and New Mexico you’ll see large roasters spinning in front of fruits stands, stores and restaurants signaling the presence of Hatch chiles. This was not the case here in New York, nor were the shelves stocked with limited edition treats made with the chiles, as you’ll also see during the season.
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Blueberry lime oatmeal muffins and a new cookbook

The other day my grandma asked me, “What have you been doing with yourself lately?” She had noticed it’s been quiet on the blog this summer and I told her I’d been taking it easy—it’s summertime after all. Though that’s not exactly the truth, as I’ve been in the kitchen quite a bit lately. For instance, I spent a good chunk of time last week satisfying a slight obsession with blueberry lime oatmeal muffins.

Do you ever get fixated on a thought and can’t let it go? That’s how I’ve been feeling about said muffins, ever since I dreamt that I wanted to bake a batch. In my dream, I was hanging out with my agent and while she wanted me to sign some papers, I insisted it was more important for me to bake muffins instead.

Now, this dream did indeed come from a logical place. One, I’ve spent lots of time this summer organizing my family’s recipes and food stories for an upcoming project. And not only was my great-grandmother renown for her oatmeal bread, but my mom also makes these incredible muffins stuffed with fresh blueberries. Obviously, my subconscious mind thought it was only natural to combine the two in some way.



Then there’s the part of the dream that has to do with my agent and legal papers. Yes, this is also a reflection of my real life as I’ve been offered a book deal for my second cookbook. But enough about me, let’s get back to the muffins.
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Peach jalapeño jam

Texans love their peaches. I’d say that this love ranks right up there along with bluebonnets, barbecue, cheese enchiladas and football. And for good reason, as Texan peaches are the best. I’ve always assumed everyone knew this, but the other day when I handed a jar of peach jalapeño jam to someone from the East Coast, she asked, “Do peaches grow in Texas?” Surprised, I quickly nodded my head and said yes.

Now, as Texans enjoy being competitive with each other, you’ll find there are those that say the Hill Country town of Fredericksburg has the sweetest, juiciest peaches. And then there are those that prefer the peaches grown in Fairfield and East Texas. But as for me, my favorite peaches are the ones grown at my grandma’s farm.

The other day she called me and told me she was having a good year with her bounty. Though it isn’t always this way, as one year they were terribly tart and another year some hungry critter crawled up in the tree and ate all the peaches in the middle of the night. But this year has been successful, which means her visitors are probably getting their fill of homemade peach pies and cobblers.



Of course, peaches aren’t available year round, so there’s nothing better than preserving your fruit for a taste of summer when the light is limited and the days are cold. Grandma likes to freeze hers to insure we’ll have enough to make a peach pie at Thanksgiving. But one of my favorite methods of preserving this taste of summer is by making jam.
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Sorghum-mustard glazed ribs

The other day, a friend of mine commented about how hard it was to recreate barbecue without a yard. She’s a recent arrival to New York City from Texas and like many of us, she was shocked by the constraints we have in our tiny kitchens.

Now, I realize I was just talking about this recently, but it’s especially apparent this time of year when most everyone I know from back home is talking about firing up their smokers or sitting on their front porch snapping peas. These are the moments that you miss.

(Of course, there’s also that point in a Texas summer when it gets so darn hot that you might not even want to leave the safety of your air-conditioned house. But that’s another topic for another day.)

In any case, one of the things my friend commented on was how different it was to make ribs in the oven instead of in a smoker or on the grill. It is different, but that said there was an article in The New York Times a few years ago that argued oven ribs are superior to grilled ribs. For many, those were contentious words, but when you don’t have a grill you take whatever solace and support you can get.



Our conversation gave me a craving, so I swung by the store and picked up some racks to prepare for dinner. I have a couple of different ways I like to make my oven ribs. But as I was cleaning out my refrigerator and found a bottle of sorghum syrup hidden in the back, I thought it would make for an interesting glaze. (Why was the syrup in the refrigerator? Well, I’d stuck it there to keep it safe from ants. Again, another topic for another day.)
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zucchini slaw

One of the toughest things about living in New York City is the lack of any outdoor space. During the winter when the city is cold and wet, you don’t miss it so much. But now that it’s summer, there’s nothing I like better than sitting outside on a warm, breezy day.

Of course, there are plenty of parks in New York, along with a beach that’s an hour train ride away—not everything is cement and steel. But there’s something to be said about having your own space, and besides the fire escape outside my bedroom window, I have no outdoor space to call my own.

Because I don’t have a yard, I also don’t have a grill or a smoker, which means my knowledge of outdoor cooking is purely based in theory and not in practice. That said, I do have friends here who do have outdoor spaces and they are kind enough to invite me over when they have backyard barbecues. As I don’t like to show up empty handed I have to say that I’ve become quite adept at side dishes and portable desserts. And heck, while I love to gnaw on a smoked rib or tuck into a fatty smoky piece of brisket, I’m just as inclined to get seconds on the coleslaw or potato salad, too.



People are often surprised when they visit Texas for the first time and see people enjoying vegetable dishes. While it’s true most Texans love meat, Texas also has a rich tradition of farming and home gardening, which makes for a multitude of side dishes since after you harvest that patch of land you need to eat what you’ve grown.
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Chipotle-orange glazed drumsticks

There’s a scene in the movie “Hud” where Patricia Neal’s character offers an orange to Paul Newman. As she’s about to hand it to him she says, “Look it says ‘Florida’ on it. We grow ’em right here in Texas and they send them in from Florida. That makes sense, doesn’t it?” Paul Newman shakes his head and says, “Yeah.”

“Hud”, which is based on Larry McMurtry’s book “Horseman, Pass By,” is a tale about two generations of West Texas ranchers and their conflicting values—the new versus the old. That orange scene isn’t in the book, and yet it’s one of my favorite fictional conversations about Texas food. Indeed—why in the heck would you buy a Florida orange when they grow them in Texas?

Well, the film takes place in summer and that’s not exactly prime time for Texas citrus. Even though we’re accustomed to eating oranges year round, Rio Grande Valley oranges are only available November through March. So I’ve always thought that the summertime setting of the film might explain why the characters are eating Florida oranges when they’re in Texas. (That is unless there’s some deeper significance to the scene that my inner English major just hasn’t figured out yet.)



But yes, I realize it’s June so why am I talking about oranges? Well, the reason why I mention any of this is when I was flipping through this month's issue of “Everyday Food,” I spotted a chicken recipe that had baked thighs slathered in an orange glaze. It looked appealing, and when I went to the store not only were juice oranges on sale but also were drumsticks. With a few modifications from the original recipe, my dinner plans were confirmed.
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Mint chocolate cookies and cream ice cream

What's your favorite ice cream? For most of my life, mine's been coffee. But when I was a teenager, two flavors—mint chocolate chip and cookies and cream—fought for my attention, with both of them making regular appearances in my freezer via half-gallon buckets made by those good folks in Brenham, TX.

In order to satisfy my craving, my usual practice was to fill my bowl with scoops of both. You’d have to eat quickly or the ice cream would soon be a cold soup, but I didn’t mind since as the ice cream melted and melded together, the two became one with the cool mint balancing to the sweet chocolate cookies. A few years later, another ice cream company agreed the two belonged together and came out with that combination in commercial form. But by then I’d moved back to coffee as my ice cream of choice, and I forgot about how much I had loved the two.

This weekend, however, I found myself flipping through Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones, a delicious new ice cream cookbook by the owners of San Francisco’s Bi-Rite Creamery. When I was last in San Francisco, a dear friend and I stopped there as she has the good fortune to live close to the shop. There was a long line but she said it was worth the wait. The honey lavender ice cream was highly recommended by most, and it was as wonderful as promised.

That said, I didn’t take too much notice of their other flavors when I visited so reading the book was like revisiting their shop with a bit more time to linger. For longtime fans, their take on honey lavender recipe is in the book along with a host of other classics such as vanilla, chocolate and yes, coffee. Though it’s not all traditional, as there are recipes for more unusual flavors such as ginger, basil and peach leaf, too.
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Crispy dogs with bacon-jalapeño dipping sauce

“How you feel about crispy dogs?” asked a friend from San Antonio. We were discussing regional variations of hot dogs, with my favorite being the bacon-wrapped Mexican hot dogs I enjoy at the Fiesta market by my mom’s house in Houston. His, however, was the aforementioned crispy dog, which is a cheese-stuffed hot dog wrapped in a corn tortilla and then fried.

“That sounds like a flauta,” I said. He agreed it was similar, but it also reminded him of a Tex-Mex corny dog. But no matter how you define it, what’s not to love about melted cheese, juicy sausage and a crunchy fried tortilla? Yep, ever since our conversation, I’ve had a serious craving for a crispy dog.

Though here’s the thing—if you want to order a crispy dog at a restaurant in Texas, you should go to San Antonio, as they seldom appear on menus anywhere else. While its origins are a bit murky, the beloved west side restaurant Malt House says it started selling them in 1949 and believes they were the first, though they soon became popular at other places around town such as MK Davis and Ray’s.

For more history, I called the Malt House and spoke to the manager, Ivan Gonzalez. He graciously shared with me several stories about the restaurant, which his father took over in 1990 when the founding owner Herb McEwen died. His belief was that McEwen started selling the crispy dog to appeal to his customers who wanted both American food and Mexican food, making this truly a Tex-Mex dish.
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Peanut butter crisscrosses

At a recent Hill Country church bake sale, I was faced with a difficult decision—which dessert to try? There were pies, cakes, and cookies, and while they all looked good I was limited to just one. It was a tough choice, but a nice woman made it easier for me when she pointed to a pan filled with peach cobbler and said, “You want that one. My mother made that cobbler and it’s the best.”

And that’s the truth—your mother’s dish is always the best. There’s just something about your mother’s (and grandmother’s, and great-grandmother’s) cooking that makes you happy.

Why is this? I reckon because it’s made with love.

A reader once commented on my great-grandmother’s buttermilk pie. While my great-grandmother’s recipe called for the same ingredients and method as his grandmother’s pie, he admitted he was still partial to his grandmother’s version. And that’s exactly how it should be, I said. Your mother’s (and grandmother’s and great-grandmother’s) cooking is always the best because it’s filled with good memories of the one who made it.
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Tex-Mex hot brown sandwich with green chile Mornay sauce

It’s not often that you have two special occasions fall on the same day but every once in a while worlds collide. Like this year—with both Derby Day and Cinco de Mayo occurring on the fifth of May.

The Kentucky Derby has a long tradition in American culture and people have been lining up to watch the first race of the Triple Crown since 1875. But Cinco de Mayo is more of recent fascination in the United States, and it’s a celebration that Americans have embraced more out of a love of Mexican food more than any desire to salute the Battle of Puebla, which is what the day honors. (Despite popular belief, it’s not Mexican Independence Day—that occurs on September 16).

Actually, Cinco de Mayo isn’t even celebrated much in Mexico except in the state of Puebla where the battle holds deep significance. But no matter—Americans love a good party so Cinco de Mayo has become a big deal the past few years. And I’m not complaining—I’ll take any excuse to serve up plates of my beloved Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine.

That said, the Kentucky Derby holds a place in my heart as well. My grandparents went to graduate school in Kentucky and my grandma enjoys telling stories about the excitement that surrounded the day. Since my grandparents were poor college students they never made it to the actual race but this didn’t stop them from enjoying the festivities, which included eating plates of hot browns.
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Enchiladas verdes recipe

When I used to go home to Houston, my first stop after I got off the plane was a restaurant called Amalia’s. It was a Tex-Mex joint and on the menu there was one of my favorite dishes—enchiladas verdes.

Amalia’s enchiladas verdes were the best in their class. The sauce wasn’t complex, as it was just a tomatillo, serrano, garlic and cilantro blend. And the meat wasn’t fussy, as it was just sweetly caramelized little bites of pork that were both crisp and juicy. But when you combined those two with homemade corn tortillas, melted cheese, onions, avocadoes and sour cream, you suddenly had a plate of food that felt like home.

Now, I realize this is a restaurant dish I’m talking about, and one thing I’ve learned through the years is that nothing beats home cooking. But there was something to these enchiladas—which I’d been eating since I was 10—that made me happy. Amalia’s was a family restaurant so I suspect some love was added to each plate.

But then late last year I received sad news. The owner’s daughter had read an article in which I expressed my admiration for the enchiladas verdes, and while she thanked me for the mention she informed me that her mother Amalia had decided to retire and close her eponymous restaurant.

Now, this might sound odd, but the news was devastating—it was almost as if a friend had died. For most of my life this had been my go-to restaurant, with the enchiladas verdes my first choice for a meal whenever I returned to Houston. Heck, one time my mom even got it as a to-go order for me since my flight arrived long past serving hours. She laughed as I came into her kitchen and stood at the counter eating my order of enchiladas straight from the container long past midnight. But if you have a favorite dish that you can’t find anywhere else then you completely understand.
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Strawberry spoon bread

Every spring when the wildflowers bloom, Texans will say thank you to Mrs. Claudia “Lady Bird” Johnson, the former first lady and native Texan who made it her life’s work to protect and preserve native plants in their natural habitat. But besides her commitment to keeping Texas and America beautiful, Mrs. Johnson was also known as a gracious hostess who entertained with taste and ease.

When people come over for dinner, it’s not unusual if you like a dish to ask for the recipe, and I’ve heard that Mrs. Johnson was always quick to give friends her family’s recipes, such as her method for making spoon bread.



If you’re not familiar with spoon bread, it’s an old American cornmeal-based baked pudding that’s dense, custardy and smooth, much like bread pudding. While it’s usually associated with the South, it’s been documented in early American cookbooks from New England going back to the early 1800s.
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texas sweet onion casserole with rice, chipotle and Gruyere

In New York City, certain Texan foods can be scarce. So whenever I do see them, I buy up the whole lot in fear I won’t have the opportunity again. For instance, if I see ruby red grapefruit in the winter, I buy up enough to fill my small refrigerator ensuring that I’ll be getting plenty of vitamin C in the next few days. Or in the spring, it’s the arrival of the Texas sweet 1015 onions that has me loading my entire basket with one single item.

Texas sweet 1015 onions, so named because you’re supposed to plant them on October 15, spent many years in development at Texas A&M, which resulted in the sweetest onions I’ve ever tasted. While eating uncooked onions is not something I usually enjoy, with the 1015 sweet onions it’s different—they are so mild and succulent I could eat a whole one raw with little more than a sprinkle of salt and a dash of balsamic vinegar.

That said, they’re mighty fine cooked, too. They’re my favorite onion for making onion rings and they’re also wonderful when you caramelize them and throw them on top of baked potatoes, stack them on hamburgers or stir them into sour cream for a delicious dip.



The 1015 has a very short season—they only grow from April to late May. And this is why when I do encounter them I buy as many as I can carry because I might not see them again, which is just what I did last week. As I worked through my latest acquisition, I’d eaten them in the ways mentioned above, but I still had a few left. While I wasn’t getting tired of them, I was looking for something new. And that’s when I learned about Texas 1015 sweet onion and rice casserole.
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Texas in the springtime

Is there anything more magnificent than Texas in the springtime? Each day, there’s something new to see as the state awakens and begins to bloom.

Like many homesick Texans, I don’t get home in the spring nearly often enough. This year, however, I was fortunate to be there for a conference. While my intent was to work, it was hard to stay focused when there was so much natural beauty all around.

My trip began with a break in Belton for this:



Then I headed to my grandma’s farm and saw this:



Along the way, I stopped in West for this:
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Mollejas tacos (sweetbread tacos)

Mom asked me what I’d eaten that day. I was visiting her in Houston, and she’s always amused by how much I pack into my belly in such a short amount of time. As I ran down my list, which included enchiladas, tortilla soup, chips and salsa, I mentioned I’d had sweetbread tacos.

“Sweetbread tacos?” she said. “That sounds good!” My mom has a sweet tooth, and she assumed that sweetbread meant, well, a sweet bread. When I explained to her that sweetbreads aren’t actually breads, and instead they’re the thymus glands of a cow—let’s just say she was less than enthused.

Now, this is often a common reaction from people when you mention sweetbreads. (A strange name, yes, but I reckon it’s a bit more enticing than calling them cow glands). I myself was afraid to try them until one day several of us were having a fancy French meal in New York, and my friends being far more experienced with sweetbreads than I, assured me that I would like them.



And they were correct.
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Irish cheddar and bacon soda bread

When we first moved to Houston from Dallas, one of our new neighbors greeted us with a homemade gift. “Welcome to the neighborhood!” she said. “I made you some Irish soda bread—it’s my favorite!” She then handed over a foil-wrapped package, still warm from the oven. It was a fine welcome.

After expressing gratitude, my mom and I took the bread into the kitchen. As I’d never heard of Irish soda bread, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. My first surprise was that it wasn’t green, as at that young age green was my only association with Ireland since wearing it on St. Patrick’s Day kept you from being pinched. But no, this bread instead was light brown with a craggy crust. If anything it reminded me of an oversized biscuit.

I pulled off a small piece and took a bite—it was soft and flaky with a hint of sweetness. It was so flavorful and tender I ate it unadorned, though a pat of cold butter would not have been unwelcome. It was very good—so good in fact that my mom had to warn me to stop eating it lest I ruin my appetite for dinner. Since I had never had Irish soda bread in Dallas, I wondered if it was a popular bread in Houston. The conclusion was that it wasn’t particular to Houston, just to our friendly neighbor (and Ireland, of course). But no matter its provenance, it was still a treat.



Over the next few days, we ate slices from the loaf. Even after it had cooled, it was still tender and sweet. I loved that bread and when we finally reached the end of the loaf I was very disappointed. Now here’s the thing. My hope had been that we would get the Irish soda bread recipe from our new neighbor and we’d continue baking it ourselves at home. But for some reason that never happened, and then those neighbors moved away, taking their recipe with them.
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Ruby red grapefruit and pecan sheet cake

March 2 is Texas Independence Day. On this day 176 years ago, a group convened at Washington-on-the-Brazos (back then simply known as Washington) to craft a declaration of independence from Mexico. From that moment, the Republic of Texas was born.

Because of its significance to Texas history, March 2 is a state holiday, a day of recognition. Now, banks don’t close and you still have to go to work, but plenty of folks gather to say howdy, share a Texas-themed meal and talk about how much they love their home. And yes, usually at these parties there’s some eating and some dancing and maybe even some singing. It’s a wonderful thing.

There are many ways to mark the occasion. For instance, you’ll see Texas Independence Day barbecues held around a smoking pit chock full of briskets, sausage and ribs. Or you’ll see Texas Independence Day get-togethers at local community centers where pots of chili simmer on the stove and hot skillets of corn bread arrive fresh out of the oven. And picnics have long been a popular way to celebrate, with fried chicken and cold salads on hand.



So what do my friends and I do? Being in New York, a backyard barbecue is out of the question. Instead, we keep it inside and offer plates of chicken-fried steak smothered in cream gravy. There will also be plenty of frosty beverages and lively songs. And while it may be a challenge to two-step in a five-foot square space, it’s been known to be done.
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Creamy chipotle shrimp with mushrooms and wild rice

“It’s time to be good,” said the menu, which was showcasing a special section of seafood dishes. It was carnitas that had lured me to this West Texan Mexican restaurant but I’m always a fool for good seafood, especially Texan seafood. A plate of chipotle shrimp seemed especially promising, but when I placed my order the waiter told me the special seafood menu was available only on Fridays. “It’s for cuaresma,” he explained, which means Lent in Spanish. As it was Tuesday, I stuck with my original plan of carnitas instead.

On Fridays during Lent, Catholics and many Protestants don’t eat meat, hence special Friday menus offering seafood at places where it’s not usually served. Now Lent is known as a time of abstention, repentance and reflection. But despite the serious mood I find there’s much to be joyful about during this season, namely the food.

Sure, I enjoy meat but I’ll take any excuse to eat more Texan seafood, which is widely on offer during Lent. For instance, on Fridays you’ll find many churches holding fish fries. Of course, churches in other parts of the country have Friday fish fries, but in Texas they’re frying up catfish instead of say, cod. Then there are those who have their Friday crawfish boils, as crawfish just happen to be in season during the spring. And how convenient is that?



But as fun as a Friday fish fry or crawfish boil may be, my favorite Texan Lenten tradition is the aforementioned cuaresma menu found at Mexican and Tex-Mex restaurants. On offer you’ll find Veracruz-style fish, shrimp quesadillas and the excellent Mexican bread pudding known as capirotada for dessert. And of course, you’ll also find chipotle shrimp like I saw in West Texas but was unable to order that day.
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